First Week o' 2009...Kiwi style!

So, after new year's i decided to take off towards Christchurch with a probable stop at Mt. Cook to climb to the Mueller Hut for a night. A quick word on Kiwiland's amazing accessibility for backpackers: flippin rad...ok that was two words ;) The whole country is packed with tracks (trails) and most have some type of hut, anything from a simple roof to full kitchens in the most travelled areas. Anyhow i digress.

Back to the scene, woke up to dumping rain...a hitch hiker's dream come true...pause...NOT! (everyone who's seen Borat should be laughing now) but the show must go on! After 'water proofing' my pack ..which consistst of using all my grocery bags to psuedo guard stuff i don't want to get wet... i headed to the streets , my thumb feeling strong in the wet wind!

FINALLY (ok really i only waited 20 minutes) I got a ride out of queenstown with a couple of Aussies and there friend from Germany; next ride was with a younger guy on his way to pick up his daughter in his beat up 4WD something that was just barely hangin on; and next, as i watched a new set of pure downpour roll towards me and my thumb, a big black Chevy truck pulled over for me. Knew i was in luck the moment i got in the truck...it almost felt too familiar, then i realized it was because the passenger's seat was in the 'right' place...on the right. I had stepped into an American Chevy, and go figure, it's driver spends quite a bit of time working and travelling in the states, guess where y'all? Tigard (outskirts of Ptown).

So as we approached Mt Cook, the weather became more an dmore dismal. After a mental debate of approximately 6.7 seconds, I decided to continue on with my new chaufer instead of getting soaked and ending up in my bivvy sack on the side of the road headin up to the mountain where NO ONE in their right (of left) mind would be headin for the next few days by the looks of it.

but the rain has its way of working out the kinks. Ended up travelling all the way to the north end of the south island with my new friend (Kezza) in style...nothin like a Chevy truck for luxurious travel ;) And, the sunshine poured down over Kaiteriteri beach when we arrived!
The next morning I headed out for a 2 day tramp along the Abel Tasman Coast Track. Took an acqua taxi to the north end of the track and then began my walk. Dear lord, can i tell you how amazing this area is? Let me answer for myself, no. The water is crystal clear green blue beyond words, comparable to the Greek Isles I'm told. The walk was a beautiful mix of walking through bush and along beach (the only barefoot backpacking i've done). The bush in this region is dominated by enormous crown ferns that look like palm trees on first glance. Knew i was a plant nerd post haste when i realized i'd taken more photos of the ferns than of the beach ;)

Anyhow, the walk was not too challenging and was punctuated with little swims along the way to cool down. Now let's be honest the water was not warm by any stretch of the imagination, but fantastic for some brisk swimming all the same! So the first night I decided to plop myself in my fantastic camping condom on the end of a private spit...right next to a big sign that said...well something about 'no camping' and blah, blah, blah... and so glad i did because the nearest campsite was all full and so ho-hum! seriously i had the whole spit to myself and sunset and sunrise over the ocean! Anyhow, walked out the next day with a bit of swimming and rock jumping, seriously ridiculously beautiful.

The next day I went kayaking with Kezza along the coast line, it's been great to get to experience the Abel Tasman coast from all different persepctives: up high in the hills, along the coast, and in the water. We kayaked to Split apple rock and then had a swim and a few games of hangman (which is not a popular game here in New Zealand); upon headin back off the beach we managed to flip the kayak, but otherwise our sea travels were completely un-calamitous ;) That night we went to ...the only bar...The Beached Whale, where there was a local caberet singer whose audience integration and performances were uber fun, twas a night of pure karaoke for the whole bar! Nice.

Next day, Kezza was headin back to Queenstown so i caught a ride south with him to Kaikoura, where i now sit typing (oy the finger strain!) The ride down, just like the ride up, was grand! Amazing to see how the land formations and rock types change in this country! Plus the conversation was stellar; Kezza does stone work all around the world and has some excellent stories, historical knowledge, and interesting viewpoints. Cheers mate!

Oh yeah, so the WOOFing i was going to do in the Christchurch area fell through, but i suppose you just can't plan yer fun, eh?

My hat's off to this country and it's hitchin' friendliness. I have met interesting people from all over the country, of different socioeconomic status, younger and older, in old beaters and nice new Chevies...all willing to give a bird from the states a ride ;)

ATTENTION

FYI, added some pictures to my beginning blogs...workin on the rest crew, workin on it.
There's only so much time a girl can spend in an internet cafe! Seriously!

Climbing at Hospital Rock: 3 pitch climb...up this first rock...nice one!

Who wouldn't wanaka be in Wanaka?

Dear friends, many apologies for my ridiculous lack of blogging. Y'all can punish me by some creative and enjoyable means when i'm back in a nearby zipcod :)
So, Christmas was grand for this jew and pushin toward the new year got even better!

Post Xmas, i had many adventures in wanaka! went for a fantastic hike in the pisa conservation area with a friend from the hostel. The hike itself was quite the tramp as there was no trail, only markers now again and thick bush to fight through, most exciting were the stops along the way to examine sheep skeletons (yeah i'm a nerd!) and attempt to bareback ride some grazing horses...the sheep didn't want to be ridden so much.

Next day i hired (that's rented here) a mountain bike and pedaled 25km out of town to a closed ski area and headed up to the top (14 km flippin straight up hill). Twas a long pedal up and mackenzie i was wishin you were there so we could distract each other from the climb by talkin bout poop and farts or something equally ridiculous ;0 gotta say though, pedallin that far up (to the snow baby!) can only mean one thing....a sweet fast ride down! Was an awesome day on 2 wheels and playing on a bike makes me realize how much i flippin love it!

The following day i headed off on a climbing adventure! Me, another climber, and our fantastic guide headed out for Hospital Rock area (no pun intended i'm sure). After a morning of single pitch top rope climbing, we breaked for lunch. After discussion of government, world bank structures, and other relatively evil establishments...we decided we'd better start climbin again :) For our final venture we completed a 3 pitch climb that was up pretty damn high...no exact measurements for yall...but, let's just say if you spit, you might count to atleast 15 or 20 before you lost sight of your projected drool (this is of course a post haste estimate). Twas a sweet day out on the rock and only made better by the company! cheers to Eric (just back from afghanistan) and Rich (our guide originally from the UK)~

Awoke to brilliant sunshine the next day (can i tell you my weather luck has been unbelievable and has guided my trip amazingly!) Headed out for a run around the lake trail (sounds like a rough start already doesn't it:) Ran, literally almost, into barbara (whose husband i'd hitched to wanaka with). i had tea...and wine...and almost dinner...with them, what a wonderful pair;) ok i digress, so back to the sunshine element. Seemed a good day to be on a boat....
So, a friend from the hostel 'acquired' a boat from his friend and the 3 of us headed out of the lake to a slightly hidden beach (which we named Dead Sheep Cove for the ...yeah you guessed it)
Anyhow, some quick swims in the crystal clear water and some chatting with bonnie rait and lucinda williams in the background....not bad ;)

Then we headed back into town to pick up Amy and Andy ISAACSON (these are grand friends of mine from eugene who are/were honeymooning in NZ and were headed through wanaka!)
So how rad is this scene, in a boat with great people in a beautiful area, hangin on the beach...not too shabby! Camped out the next few nights to save some bucks and to avoid the hoards that were flocking to wanaka for the new year. That was nice, very nice (please read using borat voice).

Andy and Amy and I rode acqua bikes the next day, which i wouldn't recommend for efficient travel and the turning radius on those bad boys leaves something to be desired...;) we also went to THE PUZZLING WORLD in wanaka which i full of visual illusions that make you feel like you're in an MCEscher drawing...so flippin cool! Then we braved the maze...whcih i was disasterous at! Amy and Andy managed to find all the towers...yeah, i found 2...but i laughed all the while at each dead end i found....and found again....ummm, and again to be honest :)

Decided to head out of wanaka with A&A the next day back to Queenstown for New Years Eve. Although i think i would have preferred wanaka for the eve, i knew i was getting attached to this town, its surroundings, and amazing people. There's nothing wrong with comfort, but if i had intention to see anything else I knew i had to jet. Once again, in travelling you must forego all attachment and yet approach each encounter fully, hold nothing back and experience every person and moment as the best you will ever meet, right Pi ?

Whewwww, so now we're caught up to new years eve in good old queenstown. A, A, & I had an amazing Thai dinner downtown overlooking the water front and perusing the people as they gathered for the music and celebration of the evening! Following dinner, we joined teh masses (us in our raincoats...score! and many scantilly clad...cuz what else is there but looking cool?) and danced to some nondescript DJ till midnight when the sky cleared and the fireworks were lit! New year in queenstown, and it rather felt like home to be pelted by rain all night and have it snow in the mountains...oh to be within your comfort zone...right ;P

My first day of 2009 was unremarkable really, but also lovely ;) Decided to head towards Christchurch where i was psuedo scheduled to begin my next WOOfing job (farm stay). Mmmmm, we'll leave it at that for now. I will rest my fingers and head back to the hostel i'm staying at...in Kaikoura. I'm headed for the ocean today, to swim with some seals...the dolphins were booked out for the next few weeks! I tell ya, those mammals are too popular for their own good ...or more likely mine! that's ok, i think i can talk seal pretty good too, wonder if they have a kiwi accent here ;)

Recipe for Red Hot Beverage in a Pot

SWEET AS !

/New favorite Christmas drink of choice: must follow precisely!

One bottle yellow tail shiraz (that's right the high class stuff) NOTE: can subsitute with yellow tail cab/merlot mix.

One grated Eve apple (may use Adam's apple if necessary ...he he) or diced

One medium Canadian handful of raw sugar...

One small-ish/longish German handful of ground cinnamon

Combine all ingredients in above order with wine at rolling boil.

Be sure to sacrifice apple core to floor gods for proper turn out ;)

Next add finely chopped candied ginger (5 cubes give or take 6 or so)

Allow to simmer, taste test time (that's right triple T... 'totes' yo)

Next one freedom pour of raw sugar...to taste.

Voila, one fantastic warm christmas beverage: RHBIAP (that's right, Red Hot Beverage In A Pot)

Cheers and meerry freakin christmas yall! Loves ya ;)

Poetry, freakin poetry

Ok so here's what i wrote in the woods, river side, just as sleep was trying to set in

Inside my head
No words withheld
Tramping feet step along
Rhythm resounding
Outback ventures Infront of eyes
Superceeded by internal treks
Pragmatic though guides leaps
Eyes glow with continued awe
Consciousness is presence
Thoughts abound
Inconvenient truths need no escape
Offensive thoughts have no place
Nigh peace I walk

Vanquish fear
Indulge thy soul
Escape by staying
Where the sidewalk ends
Point your visions inside
Open your eyes
Include your soul
Nod to the trees
Tempt the wind


more to follow!

Back with a Pack

So in Wanaka i sit on christmas morning, had my hot coffee and today it's cloudy and cool (exactly what i asked for...see Santa likes us pho-jews as well :) Spent the last few days in the bush...and really only came out due to lack of food, damn that more berries aren't in bloom!
Me and the pack headed up to the Rob Roy Glacier Tuesday mornin early, flipping amazing...and i will try ardently today or soon to get some picture on this here crazy blog thing-a-ma-bob. The glacier was quite near Mt Aspiring and partly attached to Avalanche peak, aptly named! I heard many and saw fewer small avalanches occurring while up there.

Once at the glacier 'viewpoint' i decided to extend my venture; dropped my pack behind some rocks and rockscrambled and bush whacked up for a few hours up the slopes, twas adventure at its finest! Once the skin on my legs had bout had it (the brush here is thick and less than baby's bottom soft), i headed down and got so caught up in the joyous flow of rockhopping that i made it almost to the river before remembering that i had to cross over the hillside to the dry creek bed where i'd left my pack! oh such fun :)

From there, i headed back down and then off toward the mount aspiring hut. In New Zealand, many of the tracks are dotted with huts that have beds and cooking areas and water, seriously this country is beyond set up for trekking! Anyhow this stretch was along the river and every turn led to more waterfalls and creek crossings and new mountain views and at some point i just had to put the camera down! Reached the hut round 5:30 (although I thought it was closer to 4) and found me a nice spot by the river away from the hut and its people to set up camp. Layed out my thermarest, sleeping bag, and virgin bivvy sack and voila! A note on bivvy sacks, for those who don't know they are basically a sleeping bag condom that keeps you mostly dry and better insulated and replace a tent when you're by yourself. I've lovingly begun to refer to it as my camping condom, safety first kids!

Anyhow from there the story can only get better, but let's just say that my evening was one of personal laughter and brief moments of calamity amonst brilliant backdrop and crystal clear skies.

So camp is set up, i thank my knees for making the long trek and still being able to pop a squat in the grass without complaint. As feelings of relief 'pour' from me, an eerie sound presents itself, or shall i say lack of sound. Yes, that's right, after years and years of peeing in the woods, i finally peed on my shorts...and I will even admit it on the internet ;) Luckily, with a stream nearby and no one around but the sandflys to puruse me in my undies, i had clean shorts ASAP...granted they were wet (and continued to be so through the next morning...doh!) Later that evening i managed to spill soup on myself (this happens when you drink soup out of its can for lack of spoonage), lick my fingers after applying loads of lemon eucalyptus bug repellent (tasty), and then spray my nice new blister with bug spray (also tasty). Then i learned what they meant by sandflies...I have heard stories of these buggers sending tourists running out of trailheads with bloody legs from the immense bites they've received, but really it wasn't so bad; granted i was more than happy for any and all skin cover and the everything "tube" (thank you Heather!) once again came in handy when i had no idea i'd need it (picture to follow...hopefully:)

That said, i had a fantastic evening watching the sunset, reading Herman Hesse's Magister Ludi and the Glass Bead Game, and journaling bit. That evening I wrote some elementary poetry that i thought i'd post. The idea was to use basically the first line to come to mind, no flow necessary, what fun! Y'all in ptown should try it seeing as how you're mostly snowed in anyhows! Gotta say, slightly I am jealous ;)

Anyhow, next morning up with the sun...and the sandflys. I layed there looking at them all landing and hovering on the mesh of my bivvy and laughed thinking 'ha you little bastards, you're so close but you can't get me' and also laughed thinkin 'i'm gonna have to climb out of here soon and then they're all gonna have christmas feast.'

So another day of hiking along the river and then back to the trailhead, once again, waterfalls, mountains, glacier....rewind, repeat, rerun. seriously, the sheep here have got it made. On the way out, became more visually enthralled with the rock formation. The mountains here are quite rugged and dramatic (due to glacial creation..as is everything here in Kiwiland). The rock has intense angle and sheeted layers of "schist"...so apparently, schist happens :) in fact, the mountains are really just a load of schist, but really who gives a schist?

Anyhow, back in wanaka, i stopped for tea at the home of the fellow i'd hitched a ride. He and his wife are in their mid 60s/early 70s and are in town for the holidays with family, spent a few hours with them having a fabulous time! Must say, as a general theme, the people i've found myself having the most fun with are kids and older adults, more free and fun and spirited i'd say.

By the way, merry christmas to all! Hope you guys pull out the sled and make a few snow angels (or snow devils knowin some of you blokes!)

Cheers!